Think of beach holidays in Kenya and the image that forms in many people’s minds is of the profusion of large tourist resorts on the mainland coast near Mombasa. Yet there is a much more authentic, much gentler experience to be had in the far north of Kenya, on the unspoilt island of Lamu. It’s on this timeless island, where dhow and donkey power still hold sway, that you’ll find Kipungani Bay, a rustic barefoot luxury beach camp that Robinson Crusoe would have drooled over.

Kipungani lies at the end of a 12 km stretch of pristine and virtually deserted white sandy beach stretching all the way back to the fashionable little village of Shela. The brave (or insane!) may want to slog their way there on foot, but a 30 minute transfer from the airport by speedboat, or better still by dhow, is really the only way to approach this blissfully isolated lodge where the lodge staff will be waiting on the sandy beach to give you a typically warm Swahili welcome.one of those places that really invites you just to kick back and relax and let those city stresses be washed away by the timeless pace of life here

The 13 traditional bandas that edge the beach under gently swaying palm trees that fringe are an eco-tourist’s dream – large, airy constructions of mangrove poles, makuti thatch roofs and woven palm walls and flooring, with huge, netted 4-poster beds and inviting verandas overlooking the ocean. They’re spaced ample distances apart to ensure a wonderful sense of privacy.

The bandas are wonderfully light and airy creations, kept cool by the gentle trade winds that give refreshing comfort due to the lack of doors or windows – at night you can also use the ceiling mounted fan for a cool night’s sleep. At the entrance to your banda, giant clam shells make for handy foot baths to wash the sand off your feet. The rooms themselves are cavernous and simply but very comfortably furnished, with huge beds and romantic mosquito nets. Behind the bathrooms you’ll find a spacious dressing room/bathroom area, complete with basin, flush loo and solar heated shower.

The main lodge building itself is the main focus of the action here – the sunset-facing lounge (quite rare in East Africa) is especially inviting with its gorgeous hanging “moon beds” and large, comfortable driftwood sofas piled high with enormous colourful Swahili cushions that draw lazy bodies like powerful magnets! This is the perfect spot to grab a board game or book from the small library and flop down with a long and very cool drink.

Of course, there’s always the adjacent swimming pool perched invitingly above the beach, where you can work up a thirst in the sun and enjoy refreshments from the all-day bar service. Then there’s the long jetty which leads out into the bay, at the end of which a small shelter makes for a very different, very picturesque spot to enjoy sundowners as you watch the main lodge buildings turn shades of gold and orange as the day draws to a close. A special word of mention must be made of the dining at Kipungani, where fresh seafood purchased from the local fisherman is spectacularly good.

Whilst there are a range of activities available – snorkelling, windsurfing, dhow trips to Lamu town or just exploring the archipelago, swimming with dolphins, and very interesting visits to the local village to name just a few – Kipungani is one of those places that really invites you just to kick back and relax and let those city stresses be washed away by the timeless pace of life here, a life dominated by the age-old ebb and flow of the tides (the salt water swimming pool being particularly welcome at low tide when the sea retreats a considerable distance)

Very comfortable, spacious and well ventilated traditional bandas make for a perfect island base

Excellent food goes hand in hand with wonderfully friendly service

The chance to stroll along seemingly endless deserted beaches

Extremely tidal beach - but good snorkelling available on nearby coral islands

Keep an eye out for sand flies