Perched in the dunes at the end of a 12km long stretch of deserted beach on the Swahili time warp island of Lamu, lies this tiny 8 banda eco-lodge that gives new meaning to the words “laid back”. Here the delightful owners and hosts, Mary Jo and Louis Van Aardt, have succeeded in creating a beach lodge that, in spite of its back-to-basics simplicity, consistently delights its guests and attracts rave reviews (see Other Reviews). To use their phrase, it’s been styled as the ultimate “no shoes, no news” resort, a place where you can come to just chill out and recharge your batteries in an atmosphere of seclusion and tranquillity.

Mary Jo and Louis have put their experience as previous managers of the nearby Kipungani lodge to good use in creating their retreat – in fact, the close ties they had fostered with the local village led directly to them being offered this gorgeous stretch of beach to develop. The result is a lovely little lodge that perhaps lacks some of the luxuries and frills of other Kenyan beach lodges – but then again comes without those eye-watering prices either!

The rooms of the lodge lie scattered in the dunes on the southern tip of Lamu island – a great position in terms of being able to enjoy both the sunrise and sunset which is very rare in this neck of the woods. With just 8 thatched bandas one of the things that you’re guaranteed of at Kizingo is that you’re never going to feel overcrowded. They’re also well spaced apart to give an even greater degree of privacy and seclusion.the ultimate “no shoes, no news” resort, a place where you can come to just chill out and recharge your batteries in an atmosphere of seclusion and tranquillity

Inside you’ll find large, comfortable double beds romantically draped with mosquito nets and with a solar powered fan. With the vegetation on the dunes being quite limited, relief from the heat of the sun also comes by way of the natural ventilation of the sea breezes through the open window apertures – if you’re concerned about protecting your modesty from prying eyes don’t worry, as handy bamboo blinds can be unfurled to give you privacy. To wash off the salt and sand after a day on the beach, head for the shower in the en-suite bedroom that also offers flushing-eco-loos, basin and dressing area.

Eating here at Kizingo is a wonderfully social occasion with everyone gathering in the main restaurant and tucking into some meals in an almost family atmosphere seated around a huge table. Don’t worry though if you feel like something more private – you can also opt to dine more romantically on the balcony of your banda for instance.

After a tough day of snorkelling, fishing or just lazing in the sun there’s little better than gathering around the sociable bar and enjoying a ice-cold Tusker whilst comparing notes with your fellow guests – get Alex, the barman, to mix you a delicious (and deceptively potent!) Dawa cocktail made using local fresh limes.

There’s definitely no shortage of activities on offer at Kizingo. Arguably the most special are the wonderful “swimming with dolphins” trips Louis runs between November and April to the nearby small coral island of Kinyika – truly a life affirming experience you’ll remember years after! Then there’s snorkelling on nearby coral reefs, again from November to April when the north east monsoon, the “Kaskasi”, results in crystal-clear waters perfect for observing the kaleidoscope of colour underwater.

Perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to observe the green turtles coming onto the beach to lay their eggs, or go on an expedition to protect the newly hatched turtles from dangers as they find their way to the ocean. Of course, there’s also the chance to enjoy some of the area’s legendary fishing – and what could be a better way to end the day then to have your catch expertly prepared and served up as dinner whilst you chat about the day’s exploits over some ice-cold Tuskers with your fellow guests!

Mary Jo and Louis are some of the most delightful hosts to be found anywhere in the Indian Ocean

Life changing experience of swimming with dolphins possible in summer months

A great beach lodge stripped of all unnecessary frills making for a supremely relaxing holiday

Beach in front of lodge not the greatest for swimming - but snorkelling and swimming with dolphins nearby

May be just too simple and basic for some