If even Zanzibar has too many people for you, then why not head down to sleepy Mafia Island, a short flight south from Dar es Salaam. Here you’ll find Kinasi Lodge – the perfect spot to get away from it all for those seeking some quality solitude. The other main reason for coming here is the diving which is absolutely superb and far less crowded than the popular Zanzibar dive spots to the north.

the diving is absolutely superb and far less crowded than the popular Zanzibar dive spots to the north The lodge itself is absolutely charming, having a strongly Shirazi Arab flavour to its architecture and feel. Its 14 ochre-coloured A-frame bungalows are perched on top of a grassy, palm tree studded slope overlooking a small sandy beach and with stunning views over the dhow-plied channel in front of the lodge to Chole Island in the near distance. Inside they’re quite spacious and comfortable with cooling slate floors, whilst large swathes of linen draped from the ceiling give a more luxurious feel. A stylish and unusual touch is the colourful ceramic plates recessed decoratively into the wall that makes up the headboard.

The beach at the lodge itself is quite pretty, but if it’s picture-perfect beaches you’re looking for then a short hop on the lodge’s boat to a nearby sandbank that is exposed at low tide will have you happily slathering on the sun-block! A cooler box and shade pagoda makes sure you’re always comfortable, and Kinasi has also started doing great beach barbeques on the sandbank.

Kinasi is also the only lodge on Mafia to have a swimming pool, so if you feel like doing nothing more active then lying on a lounger on the comfortable pool deck and sipping an ice-cold drink that’s also fine. Or perhaps head for a treatment at the new Spa complete with masseurs brought in from Thailand. But do yourself a favour and try to do at least one excursion with charming Kirobo, a wise old native of Mafia who fascinates with his knowledge of the island, its history, not to mention insights into the current life of the islanders.

Mafia Island is one of the all-time great escapes left - and you get to still enjoy it in style at Kinasi

Quite simply some of the best diving and snorkelling on the planet

If you're still battling to relax (hardly likely!) let one of the resident Thai masseuses ease the last of your city stress away

Swimming pool is a real plus at low tide

Mafia is past the back of beyond - so if you’re looking for nightlife, this is not the place for you

Kinasi is spread over quite a steep hillside, so less physically mobile folk might struggle

The rooms can be quite dark during the daytime