Matemwe stands out as an all too rare example of a place where the reality is so much better than the brochure or website portrays it (all too often we’ve ended up totally under-whelmed by a property that looked absolutely sensational in its promotional pics) Previously the lodge used to be known as "Matemwe Bungalows", but they've wisely done away with the “Bungalows” part as it suggested a simple, verging on cheap place not worth a second glance. The reality though is that Matemwe is probably our favourite lodge on the entire island!

“Why so?” I hear you asking. The answer is that the lodge does just about everything perfectly to create an almost unbearably romantic experience for guests. Take the standard rooms for example – just 12 huge spaces that are simply yet oh-so stylishly decorated and generously spaced out for a real feeling of privacy. Each bungalow is situated a discrete distance from the next and screened by plants, heightening the feeling of cosy privacy. Inside the rooms are wonderfully cool and simply but stylishly furnished. Bathrooms are particularly roomy, with double vanities, showers and a frankly enormous bath perfect for wallowing by candlelight. Talking of enormous – the huge mosquito-netted double bed boasts fine linen and feels big enough to get lost in. Perhaps the highlight though, are the private verandas – each with its own hammock big enough for two as well as a mass of cushions perfect for sprawling in as you enjoy your morning cup of coffee and delicious biscuits (delivered at dawn by a gently padding waiter and left on your veranda to be enjoyed at your leisure)

Watching the flotilla of dhows making their way out on the tide whilst we sipped early-morning coffee sprawled on a hammock on our veranda, literally within a stone’s throw of the chatting fisherman, was an unforgettable highlight.the lodge does just about everything perfectly to create an almost unbearably romantic experience for guests

It’s in the little touches – like the flower petals strewn prettily around the double vanity in the spacious bathroom. Or the restaurant’s wonderfully atmospheric hurricane lamp lighting and evocative music that made for quite the most romantic eating experience we’ve had in ages! The fact that the lodge is perched over one of the best beaches on the island doesn’t hurt either.

Lie around the pool or take a dip in the sea, then enjoy a delicious buffet lunch accompanied by dazzling views of the aquamarine waters alongside the restaurant whose open sides also invite in a cooling breeze. Adjoining the restaurant is a cosy lounge area that is the epitome of cool – a series of cosy alcoves littered with comfy cushions that just begs out for you to crash and chill, play a game of bao or chat with fellow guests. If you get peckish during the long hot, afternoon, freshly baked cakes and goodies are left for you to nibble on. Sundowners are best enjoyed around the ingenious bar fashioned from an old dhow next to the pool.

From there it’s just a short stroll across to the restaurant where suspended paraffin lamps now cast a romantic glow over the tables – quite a few of your dinner companions are likely to be love-struck honeymooners gazing lovingly into each others eyes, but you’re sure to be able to join some like-minded travellers if you just want to shoot the breeze. You’ll have a choice of imaginatively put together main courses and a better wine selection than is the norm on the island. Another nice feature is the open braai situated next to the restaurant that is regularly used to barbeque fresh seafood.

Some great new changes have been made over the last year or so, but they haven't affected the unpretentious feeling that prevails at Matemwe. Chief amongst those is the superb split-level swimming pools - one with great views over Mnemba Island and another giving easy access to the bar - featuring brilliantly executed sculptures of a crab and an octopus. There's also a wonderful new chill zone and massage deck alongside the pool whose ochre walls and soft cushions are hugely inviting.

Last and certainly not least in adding to Matemwe's reputation, are 3 new huge and decadently luxurious honeymoon suites just north of the main lodge boasting plunge pools on their private roof terraces, air-conditioned bedrooms and their own small private beach - this piece of paradise is called Matemwe Retreat!

Some of the nicest rooms on the island

Great pool area for heat relief at low tide

Delicious seafood in hugely romantic restaurant

Chilling in the hammock on your private veranda

Excellent sandy, palm fringed beach

Walking on the reef and watching the haggling at the nearby village’s fish market

So popular it can be tough to get a room

Cliff top position makes it unsuitable for small kids

If you're a really light sleeper the sound of the water against the cliff outside your room could disturb

Bar fridge in room would be nice (but we probably would never have surfaced then!)